Forced Labor Drives Fast Fashion
A cotton plant
aokcreation via Flickr
75% of all clothing produced is made of cotton, and although it is hard to imagine for us where that cotton is being produced, it does not mean it isn’t there. We as consumers resort to the “out of sight, out of mind” mindset without even thinking about it. I don’t blame those who participate in the fast fashion trend. It is hard to avoid these fast paced stores when it is all we look at when scrolling mindlessly through social media. As much as the consumers want to ignore the prominent question of where exactly the clothing is coming from, ignoring it won’t make the unfortunate answer disappear.
Our generation has become pros at ignoring the taboo topics in fast fashion like questioning where all this cotton is coming from. Maybe we avoid asking ourselves that because we just don’t want to know the answer. The demand for cotton has since skyrocketed due to the uproar trend of shops online like Shein and brick-and-mortar stores like Primark. Xinjiang, a region in China where the cotton is produced, is considered the powerhouse of the cotton supply that we just can’t get enough of. Since 2006, the United States has towered over other nations in regard to consumption of Chinese textiles and garments. This cotton is being produced through unethical means. As that cotton reaches American soil, we are blind to its origins and the conditions workers endure for its production.
Human rights organizations have confirmed that the source of this cotton is from a forced labor field in the Xinjiang region of China. The forced labor camps have been exposed by many U.S. officers. At first, the People’s Republic of China refuted all accusations and labeled them as interference in their domestic affairs. However, when presented with eyewitness testimony and well-researched reports from various sources, the PRC eventually acknowledged the existence of the camps.
The Chinese government is reportedly the main trafficker of these workers in Xinjiang. Researchers have estimated around 570,000 people have been forced to work at these camps. They will often use physical and sexual violence, force drug intake and torture those who are being detained to work in these camps.
Prominent fashion brands have spoken out on exiting this controversial cotton supply chain. Patagonia announced in July it was,“actively exiting the Xinjiang region,” as well as telling suppliers that Xinjiang fiber and manufacturing was prohibited. Brands like Ikea, Nike and H&M have followed suit in terminating their cotton relations to the Xinjiang region. Endless U.S. brands have received backlash on when they will also cut ties with the cotton labor camps. Detecting where exactly the cotton comes from is almost impossible. As this cotton is spun into yarn, so are resources from places such as Vietnam and Bangladesh. Brands use this to disavow knowledge of what is going on in their supply chains.
The exposure of these inhumane labor practices alongside the advocacy by numerous brands gives consumers a good opportunity to push for transparency in international trade activity and supply chains. When these clothes that were made unethically finally trickle down to the consumers, it is up to the buyer to spend their money wisely. Purchasing power is real and such a privilege that we buyers have. Supporting these brands mindlessly has consequences. These consequences include the continued exploitation of workers in Xinjiang. The least we can do as consumers is to be informed, and to make educated choices when it comes to fast fashion.