Reviewing Milan & Paris Fashion Weeks

Models at the end of the SS09 London Fashion Week show. Photo: Farrukh on Flickr

Milan, Italy and Paris, France have always represented the tension between past and future, tradition and revolution. This season, Spring/Summer 2025, was no exception. In Milan, designers celebrated craftsmanship while playing with modernity, while Parisian houses grappled with turmoil and triumph, using fashion as mimesis, an artistic reflection of the world at large. Together, these two cities presented a vision of fashion where beauty, rebellion and comfort coexist in perfect contradiction.

Milan, A City of Contradictions

Milan Fashion Week has always been a stage for dualities — tradition versus innovation, luxury versus accessibility and craftsmanship versus technology. Spring/Summer 2025 took these themes and wove them into a collection of contradictions, where each designer told a different chapter of the same overarching story. The message was clear: fashion, like life, is about balance. Some designers looked to the past, while others used cutting-edge techniques to push forward. Despite their different approaches, all houses grounded their work in one fundamental principle — craftsmanship.

Return to the Craft

In an industry dominated by fast fashion and fleeting trends, designers at Milan Fashion Week made a strong case for slowing down and reconnecting with craftsmanship. 

Matteo Tamburini of Tod’s led the charge with Artisanal Intelligence, a collection deeply rooted in Italian know-how. His trench coats and nappa windbreakers, lightweight yet structured, reflected a slower pace of life, one where every seam sewn tells a larger story.

Similarly, Ferragamo’s Maximilian Davis dipped into the house’s ballet legacy, bringing out wrap cardigans, racer-back silhouettes and ribboned heels, echoing the grace of dancers like Rudolf Nureyev and Katherine Dunham. His use of second-skin cashmere and silk nylon allowed freedom of movement while maintaining a high degree of polish. Despite its lux, the collection felt like it was designed to be lived in, rather than simply worn.

Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy embraced the slow, meticulous art of leatherwork with a collection that evoked childhood memories of playing dress-up. Oversized tailoring and leather layering may have seemed playful, but the attention to detail — the subtle creasing and feather-soft nappa leather — spoke of a reverence for the craft. Blazy used whimsy to underscore the importance of craftsmanship, showing us that luxury can and should be fun.

New Visions of Femininity

This season, designers took a fresh approach to femininity, exploring it through rebellious and celebratory lenses. For Prada, femininity was a slowly solved puzzle. Miuccia Prada threw together elements like eyelet visors, dropped-waist skirts and printed tweed jackets, seemingly without a clear throughline. But, as always with Prada, the meaning reveals itself over time, emphasizing that femininity can be complex, layered and, at times, contradictory.

Donatella Versace, on the other hand, used her collection to celebrate joy in a tumultuous world. “With a world torn apart by war, a message of positivity and freedom is the most important thing,” she said before the show in an interview with The Guardian. The SS25 collection was unapologetically cheerful, with floral brooches crafted from recycled bottles and heels shaped like perfume bottles.

At Gucci, Sabato De Sarno reimagined femininity through the lens of Casual Grandeur. He conjured the glamor of the early 70s Italian Riviera, drawing on the Gucci archives to bring back A-line shifts, floral head scarves and oversized glasses. De Sarno also added references from the 1990s and 2000s, like floor-sweeping coats paired with white vests and jeans, proving that femininity can be opulent while remaining relaxed, depending on how it’s styled.

Sustainability with Edge

Sustainability was no longer an afterthought at Milan Fashion Week — it was front and center, ingrained with an unmistakable edge. Diesel’s Glenn Martens recycled 14,800 kilograms of scrap denim to create the show’s Donnie Darko-esque set, continuing his mission to demonstrate the “beauty in waste.” Fringed micro-shorts, lasered jackets and shredded jeans rebelled against the idea that sustainability means sacrifice. In Martens’ hands, waste becomes beauty, with every piece of frayed denim testifying to fashion’s dedication to constant reinvention.

Time as a Concept

The concept of time weighed heavily on the minds of Milan’s top designers, with collections that both looked back and pushed forward.

Fendi’s Kim Jones began the brand’s centennial celebration with a nod to the roaring 1920s. Art Deco beading and dropped-waist silhouettes paid tribute to the flapper era. Jones grounded his collection with the addition of Red Wing desert boots, keeping the collection relevant for the modern woman. 

Giorgio Armani celebrated 50 years of his brand with Future Perfect, a collection that showed his deep understanding of timeless style. Pastel lavenders, sages and pinks dominated the runway, alongside his signature linen jumpsuits and relaxed tailoring. Armani’s message is clear — fashion may evolve, but style is eternal.

Joyous Rebellion

Giuliano Calza of GCDS played with the idea of romance, remixing it into something provocative and bold. His rave-ready neon tones, botanical prints and punk-inspired tulle skirts were declarations of independence. GCDS knows that romance doesn’t have to be soft; it can be a powerful force of resistance.

Dolce & Gabbana, on the other hand, paid tribute to the queen of rebellion herself — Madonna. With the pop icon seated in the front row, the collection featured conical bras, bustiers and era-defining looks that celebrated Madonna’s status as a fashion icon. In true Dolce & Gabbana style, the collection was bold, loud and unforgettable — a fitting homage to the woman who’s always dared to break the rules.

Paris, A Fractured City 

Paris Fashion Week, Spring/Summer 2025, was a collective conversation on navigating a fractured world.

As the capital of haute couture, Paris was abuzz with designers grasping for clarity in chaos. France, like the rest of Europe, is in the throes of social and political tension. With the far-right on the rise and nationwide discontent boiling over, designers grappled with the question of what fashion can do in times of crisis; when the world feels uncertain, yet still craves beauty and comfort. 

In this context, fashion becomes a battleground of ideas, an escape hatch and a comforting balm simultaneously. This season, Paris’ creative voices spoke through pointed questions: Can fashion heal? Can it provoke? Or does it simply provide a momentary escape?

The Comfort of Heritage

When times feel precarious, we cling to what we know. For some designers, that meant finding solace in the archives. 

Chloé, under the direction of Chemena Kamali, leaned into its quintessential boho-chic roots. Lace, pleats and those famous billowy blouses floated down the runway like ghosts of summer's past. The collection was nostalgic without feeling sappy — like a summer day where everything is a little too warm, a little too slow, but all in the best ways. 

Valentino, now helmed by Alessandro Michele, dipped into its ‘70s heyday, infusing the house with a playful exuberance that glittered with sequins and bows. It was vintage with a wink, a reimagining of what Valentino once was and what it can be again. 

Surrealism

Surrealism also reared its head, as it often does when the world feels upside down. 

Alphonse Maitrepierre brought this to the forefront, playing with tech gadgets and gaming paraphernalia as accessories, asking what the surrealist movement would look like in today’s digital age. The result was both geeky and oddly futuristic. 

Coperni took us to Disneyland, blending childhood fantasy with elements of fear, presenting Mickey Mouse heels and horns on shoes — absurd but delightful, in the way only childhood dreams can be.

Mugler’s apocalyptic, futuristic vision felt like a post-pandemic fever dream — a collection of sharp lines, exaggerated silhouettes and military-inspired uniforms ready for a battle yet to come. Thierry Mugler’s archival references were transformed into an aesthetic fit for a sci-fi thriller. It was fashion for an uncertain future, armor for a world that no longer feels predictable.

At Loewe, Jonathan Anderson delved into ‘radical reduction,’ stripping away unnecessary frills and focusing on form and structure. Skirts jutted out at improbable angles, creating an illusion of simplicity while hiding complex craftsmanship. While minimalist on the surface, the collection plays with the idea of fashion as sculpture, and this ‘less is more’ design philosophy reminds audiences that even minimalism can make a bold statement.

Rebellion in Femininity

Saint Laurent’s femme fatale emerged from the shadows. Anthony Vaccarello offered a collection that reveled in darkness, with sheer blouses unbuttoned to the navel, oversized suiting and a sense of danger lurking in the folds. It was as if the women were walking to some war room, dressed for a different, more formal battleground.

Balenciaga’s Demna explored lingerie and eroticism in a way that was new for him, embracing a sensuality that felt both delicate and defiant. For Atlein, punk lesbians from Thatcher-era London became muses, with designer Antonin Tron channeling rebels through slitted leather and combat boots, making the runway feel like a march.

Miu Miu’s quirky take on preppy fashion saw sporty pieces clash with delicate skirts, while belts wrapped around arms and knotted layers evoked a distinct playfulness often associated with Miu Miu. It was the kind of elevated realism that Miuccia Prada is known for: wearable, yet boundary-pushing design. 

The Politics Surrounding Fashion

In a year where political and social tensions have peaked across Europe, especially in France, designers were acutely aware of the cultural moment. Fashion, long dismissed as a frivolous pursuit, became a canvas for political expression.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood paid homage to environmental activist Paul Watson, currently imprisoned for his fight against whaling. The collection, a blend of industrial and ladylike touches, was a reminder that fashion can be a vehicle for change. Kronthaler, carrying on the legacy of Dame Vivienne Westwood, emphasized punk’s mindset: a rebellious stance against injustice.

Meanwhile, Ann Demeulemeester embraced indie sleaze, resurrecting the underground aesthetic of the mid-2000s, with disheveled tailoring, ruffled collars and lace fabric evoking a time of chaotic creativity. Designer Stefano Gallici’s nostalgia represented a longing for the anarchic energy of youth, demonstrating that fashion, at its best, is an act of rebellion.

The Playful and the Practical

Amid all this turmoil, Stella McCartney showed us that fashion doesn’t have to come at the planet’s expense. Her 91% recyclable collection fluttered with light silks and playful bird motifs, a subtle protest against the industry’s often destructive nature. On the other hand, Junya Watanabe brought the form-follows-function aesthetic, crafting pieces for climbing and trekking that felt as much utility gear as they did fashion.

Honoring the Past, Shaping the Future

At Chanel and Dries Van Noten, the absence of a named creative director allowed the house’s studio teams to take center stage. These collections proved that even without a singular vision, fashion houses can still honor their heritage while keeping pace with the needs of modern consumers. 

Chanel's delicate embroideries, featherwork and sheer capes celebrated the timeless artisanship that defines the house. Dries Van Noten paid homage to its founder with prints and textiles that carried forward his signature boldness. 

The Return to Nature

One of the most telling themes this season was a return to nature, not just in sustainable practices, but also in the inspiration behind the collections. From Hermès’ earth-toned suede coats to Stella McCartney’s peace-driven dove motifs, designers seemed to be craving a connection to the natural world. In the digital age, where overstimulation and hyper-connectivity surround us, fashion looks outward, grounding itself in the simple beauty of the planet. It was a quiet, powerful statement: fashion doesn't need to scream to make itself heard. It can whisper, it can soothe, and in doing so, it can offer the kind of solace that only nature provides.

An Overview of Milan and Paris
Fashion, in bleak times, becomes a space for rebellion, for questioning the status quo. Milan and Paris' designers showed us how we can look backward and forward simultaneously, how we can embrace both surrealism and simplicity and how, even in the face of fear and uncertainty, fashion remains a constant companion in the journey. It reminds us that, even when things fall apart, we can always reinvent, rebuild and start again.

As the world continues to navigate uncertainty, the role of fashion has never been more critical. And in a world where everything is in flux, sometimes that’s all we need.