Phoebe Philo’s Much-Awaited Debut Collection

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On Oct. 30, designer Phoebe Philo released her debut collection, “A1,” which sold out within 48 hours. The collection was polarizing due to its luxury price point, featuring items such as a $15,000 iridescent t-shirt dress accompanied by $1,400 square-toed black boots. This long-awaited collection is Philo’s return to the fashion industry under her newly-formed eponymous label, having stepped down from her role as Celine’s creative director in 2017.

Philo spent ten years as Celine’s creative director, revitalizing the brand as she ushered it into the 2010s. Philo breathed new life into Celine by introducing a modern, minimalist look to the brand. She refocused Celine's design philosophy on clean lines, luxury fabrics and tailoring. Her designs were praised for their understated elegance, and her collections stressed practicality and functionality, resonating with a new generation of fashion-conscious consumers and transforming it into a sought-after luxury brand.

Philo rebirthed Celine into a sleek, classy and timeless fashion house. When she left, the industry lost her unique touch of professional femininity, leaving an industry-wide void in her wake. Her absence left enthusiasts wondering what was next for her, creating a devoted following that eagerly awaited her next moves. When news broke that Philo was working on a new collection, hype began to build. This is a collection that was over five years in the making.

Despite the collection’s anticipation, the consensus on social media from beyond her cult fanbase is that it is overpriced to the point of self-indulgence. Nonetheless, some industry reporters have celebrated her return to fashion as a revolution in womenswear. Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks describes the collection as an amalgam of old and new: “the luxe minimalism she was known for at Celine” and a “raw, shredded edge which breaks with her immediate past.”

Phoebe Philo does this to great effect. Evident through drapey coats, stiletto boots and leather handbags. Philo’s brand toes the line between an androgynous identity and a distinctly feminine palette. The brand offers women the ability to dress formally with a risque twist, subverting the expectations of professional wear — something that hasn’t been effectively done since the 90s.

The issue is that, even by luxury fashion house standards, the collection is excessively expensive. A pair of leggings made out of polyamide — an inexpensive synthetic fabric — is retailing for $1,100. A coat made out of viscose — a cheap, semi-synthetic replacement for silk — has no listed price but is reportedly selling for $25,000. Coupled with questionable design choices, like an $8,500 leather tote that doesn’t come with zippers or latches to close the bag, the collection is priced at an unjustifiable premium. Philo relies on her name and the backing offered by her time at Celine; however, the heritage of the Celine brand is missing. Other luxury brands justify their price points with their heritage, their dedication to quality, and their appreciation in price as time goes on. But, for now, Phoebe Philo offers none of these.

‘A1’ by Phoebe Philo is a return to form for the designer, both in design and in price point. ‘A2,’ her second collection, is set to release in the spring of next year — only time will tell if the hype will carry over.